Now I always check the accuracy of my tools before I start using them in a project. I have a pencil skirt pattern that goes up to 51.5″ (3xl) my mother in law would like a skirt but she’s 55″ in the hips. Actually, I would welcome advice from your readers, as well. If you want to try it this way, I recommend doing it first on your muslin. )To make accurate markings you must use accurate tools: Rulers should have their markings start on the edge.

Do you wear an 8 ready made or an 8 pattern. Whether you wish to grade a single-size or a multisize pattern, you need to understand the principles by which patterns are graded, as well as the method of hand grading.Knowing how to grade patterns by hand is an essential skill for any patternmaker, whether professional or home sewer. When you are between the pattern sizes, you can measure in increments to fit your size at different points on the pattern and slope your ruler to fit these. I can see exactly what you explained about the increments…absolutely brilliant. I ran into problems doing this with a megan nielson pattern which made me sad, but thats ok – I just drafted it myself -_-It sucks when it doesn’t work ot. It might seem like a daunting task when you’re starting out, but you’ll get the hang of it and it will be easy and second nature to you from then on.I don’t have any experience in grading down patterns, but I would imagine that you would go the opposite direction from the smallest size if you were using this method.I rarely take the time these days to draw out all of the increments on my pattern pieces as I have graded up many patterns now (not sure of the exact number– but I’d say it’s around 50 at the moment, possibly higher…). Pattern grading is an easy way to replicate a pattern to scale, saving you from having to draft the whole thing. For example, misses 8 to 16 are evenly graded, and women’s 18 to 24 are evenly graded. It might seem like a daunting task when you’re starting out, but you’ll get the hang of it and it will be easy and second nature to you from then on.I don’t have any experience in grading down patterns, but I would imagine that you would go the opposite direction from the smallest size if you were using this method.I rarely take the time these days to draw out all of the increments on my pattern pieces as I have graded up many patterns now (not sure of the exact number– but I’d say it’s around 50+ at the moment). The most common complaint is “We don’t speak the same language.”Your website can make itself stand out by encouraging the use of best practices including using well established sewing nomenclature/terms properly. This site is a not-for-profit site (unlike Threads or any other site where experts are paid for their articles) and a community where we share advice, opinions, things we’ve learned, and things we’ve made. BTW, white muslin works great for making markings and grading up patterns! As we are doing a straight up grading from the average size, you may not fit the new dart placement, so make sure that you make a muslin first, so that you can check the placements and get the fit you want.Then you’re done and ready to roll!! I never altered the pattern nor did I stray from the instructions. any further advice you have I’ll appreciate it very much!Hi!